Stage 17: A Flat Day That Was Anything But

After a quick transfer—just an hour by coach—I set up my bike. It’s become routine now: check the tires for air, snap the Garmin (charged the night before) into its holder, attach the rear light, and slot the filled bottles into their cages. Then, the inevitable search for a place to pee—usually a bush, shared with a hundred other riders doing the same. Sometimes there are facilities nearby, but more often, not. It’s all part of the Tour. We signed up for this.

I was actually looking forward to today. On paper, it was a flat stage—just 167 km—and after yesterday’s mammoth effort on Mont Ventoux, I welcomed the idea of a “recovery ride.” But the Tour organizers are sneaky in their design.

Stage 17 of the 2025 Tour de France runs from Bollène to Valence, cutting through the Rhône Valley. It features only two categorized climbs—Col du Pertuis and Col de Tartaiguille, both minor—but the real challenge wasn’t elevation. It was the wind.

The Rhône Valley is infamous for its crosswinds, especially in the afternoon. The Mistral, a strong northwesterly wind, funnels down the valley and wreaks havoc on riders. We were warned in advance: find a group, take turns at the front, and protect yourself. So I did. I found a group early and rode comfortably for the first 40 km to the food stop.

But I couldn’t believe the wind.

My idea of a recovery day blew away—literally. We pushed hard but couldn’t gain speed. The route trended north for most of the day, straight into the gusts. The sun climbed higher, the heat intensified, and the two “minor” climbs reminded us that flat never really means flat on the Tour.

Everyone was frustrated. Swearing was constant. The mood was grim. There were few highlights to report—I was too focused on the wheel in front of me to enjoy any views. We passed through farmland, more sunflower and lavender fields. At one point, the scent of lavender hung in the air, and for a brief moment, it lifted my spirits. That was my highlight.

Our group grew as the kilometers ticked by, picking up solo riders desperate for shelter. At one point, our echelon was so long I couldn’t see the end of it. When we finally reached the hotel, the consensus was unanimous: everyone hated this stage. Many said they would’ve preferred another mountain day like Ventoux. Fighting wind is draining in a way that’s hard to describe—it zaps your energy and your morale.

And tomorrow? Tomorrow is the Queen Stage—the hardest of the Tour. Nearly 6,000 meters of climbing await us. And after today, we all feel a little robbed. We expected a break. Instead, we got a battle.

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